Tuesday, September 24, 2024

I’ve been thinking about the pantsuit, and how once again I feel compelled to defend it. Why does this symbol of power, sophistication and seriousness even need defending? I’ll confess, I truly don’t understand why the workhorse uniform of choice for the professional female continually falls into and back out of favor. Nonetheless, pantsuits are mocked mercilessly every couple of decades for being out of touch, too masculine, too cartoonish. Generations keep trying to write the pantsuit’s obituary, only to find there is no other compilation of clothing that can quite take its place. I’m glad the pantsuit is enjoying a renaissance as the powerful and relevant choice for modern women.

My own love affair with the pantsuit is well documented in a close circle of friends and colleagues over the years. There is a not quite fully decommissioned army of suits hanging in the closet(s) downstairs. I find them nearly impossible to part with, despite the fact that my job today is not a suit-a-day type situation. If the money I spent on (truly great!) pantsuits over the years had been instead invested in the stock market, I’d likely be retired by now. And yet, my affection for them persists.

I’m old enough to have worked at a job where pants of any sort on women were highly frowned upon. In fact, I’m old enough to have had that fact brought up in an annual review. I was asked, “Why don’t you wear more skirts?” My shock and dropping jaw had to have been obvious to the reviewer, but I refused to take the hint. Instead, I parried back with what I hoped would cauterize the conversation. I said, “Well, I guess I just find it easier to focus on the quality of my work when I’m not worrying about whether or not my slip is showing.” It was never brought up again. (Note for younger readers: a slip is an undergarment that previously was worn to help keep fabrics from bunching or pulling, and also to prevent the ghastly embarrassment and reputational damage of having leg silhouettes appear under your skirt if you made the unfortunate mistake of being lit from behind – as in standing too near a door or window – and yes, we were taught to be conscious of such things. Slips came in sizes full,1/2 length and 3/4 length … for formal occasions, you could also find tea length or floor length models).

Less than 10 years ago I was shocked once again when visiting the U.S. Capitol. A friend and I were on our way to meet a Congressman she knew and as counsel just prior to entering his office she said helpfully, “Now, don’t be surprised if when you say you’re in software he won’t ask you anything more about it because he probably won’t understand”… then she physically paused, looked me in the eye and said, “If he seems uncomfortable, just know he doesn’t exactly approve of ladies wearing pants … So just go with it.” I’ll just leave that here and move on.

The pantsuit cycles; its popularity ebbs and flows. Even after Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent boldly carved out acceptability for trousers and suits for women, successive generations of feminists often express downright hostility for the pantsuit. When they do, they usually complain that it’s just too non-descript, that their personality has trouble shining through from inside all those layers. I suppose there’s something to that, and we are all doing a better job with authenticity in the workplace these days. But I’m sorry if I sound like a grumpy old person when I observe … it’s usually not personality that gets revealed when the pantsuit goes on hiatus. It’s during these periods when office attire becomes nearly indiscernible from beach attire. But that’s another subject.

Before you accuse me of being stuck in my ways … maybe I am. But I’m not entirely immovable or opposed to change; over the years my suits have had comically large shoulder pads, and no shoulder pads. I’ve worn 3-piece suits with neck ties, 2-piece suits of nearly every cut and color, and pinstriped suits were always my favorites. I love a short military jacket, a single-breasted slouchy boyfriend style and a crisp tailored double-breasted coat. I’ve just always felt pulled together and ready to tackle serious matters when “suited up” and in the game.

The accessories have changed, too. Though I don’t miss the full layer of pantyhose with the suit, I haven’t yet found what is the better option. I’ve tried trouser socks, invisible socks, and no socks at all. I’m not going to even mention the details involved with “foundationwear,” but IYKYK. The pumps I used to wear to complete look have given way over time to flats, then loafers and now occasionally even a sneaker.

Maybe it’s merely generational, and perhaps it’s my confirmation bias that makes me smile when I see busy female leaders comfortably moving about the planet in a tasteful pantsuit. To me it says the woman wearing it is ready for business and serious thought. It signals she isn’t expecting to be treated like a princess. It signals, “Let’s get to work.” And hasn’t that been the point all along?

Until Next Time,

Mary Schuster
Chief Knowledge Officer
October Research, LLC